Many Kiwi’s claim the ubiquitous flat white was their brain-child, and that it was formulated by coffee guru Derek Townsend at his iconic, boho coffee hangout DKD in Auckland sometime in the mid 1980s’. Back then, the air under the long white cloud was thick with the aromas of burnt Cona coffee – not to mention the methane discharge from all those millions of sheep. In the intervening years much has changed; the coffee scene has metamorphosed out of no where to become one of the most sophisticated in the world. There are over 140 roasteries throughout the country, a number the local hospitality magazine Grill claims is ”the highest number of any country on earth” (per capita). When asked why this phenomenon of great coffee has sprung up, local observers agree it comes down to what Michael Allpress, of Allpress Espresso, calls the “completely blank slate” that existed in coffee knowledge and culture. “There were no right or wrong ways to do things in New Zealand” claims Al Keating of Coffee Supreme, who reckons that, in the absence of coffee-making rules and traditions, Kiwis evolved their own ways of delivering a perfect cup of coffee.

 

Standards are universally high and, while it’s not impossible to get a bad coffee in New Zealand, the chances of drinking a memorable one are high. And it’s not just the coffee that’s stand-out either. The very best cafes are worth a visit for their excellent home baking and character-filled interior design as much for their beverage list. While the true believers say the country’s’ most vibrant coffee scene is in the capital, Auckland is not exactly short on cafe options either. The following is a guide to some of the best cafes in the City of Sails.

 

Renee and Damaris Coutler are legends of the ‘K’ (Karangahape) Road strip, bringing sunny dispositions and a stylish approach to hospitality to an area that can be said to run a little short on both. Here you sit, diner-style, at a long bar and nibble pasties, wickedly rich chocolate cake or sublime home-made meaty pies and sip excellent espresso with the locals.

Owner Allana Owen has bags of style and she’s applied these to good effect at Queenies; witness the clever references to retro Kiwiana in the award-winning interior. The beans of choice here are from roastery Supreme and they’re ground and brewed expertly- perfect for washing down a serve of pikelets with lemon curd and creme fraiche.

Owner Kim Evans’ baking is sublime- all made using free range eggs, organic meats, fruits vegetables and milk. Nibble savoury brioche, raspberry and chocolate meringues or a serve of tamarillo bread and butter pudding with a cup of expertly made coffee (or tea) and perch on an old wooden crate outside- bliss. There’s now an outpost at 12 Melrose Street, Newmarket.

Staff are all expert baristas although customers keep them on their toes by noticing even the smallest changes. “They’re sharp, all right” they say. “They let us know straight away if they like things or not.” Aside from the excellent coffee and snug, retro atmosphere they serve some great simple food. They are famed for their version of the lamington, oozing jam and lashings of whipped cream.

Coffee Supreme’s Auckland HQ is run out of a delightfully grungy building off Ponsonby Road. There’s a huge communal table, the simplest of fare (sardines on toast, hefty toasted sandwiches, good meat pies and doughnuts) and stellar coffee. If you get a dud brew here then the sky is truly falling down.

Set up by the award-winning Barista David Huang and highly experienced coffee roaster Andrew Smart and now run by Michael & Khim Yip. The clientele is a laid-back mix of locals and coffee maniacs who traverse the city for a fix. Perch at the bar and quizz the barista while he pulls an espresso or read cupping notes from recent tastings, on the cabinet behind.

Michael Allpress is a household name in New Zealand and although his company is now large, it’s never lost that boutique edge. No where is this better expressed than at Caffeteria Allpress and the Cupping Room in Ponsonby. The former is a pared-back, sophisticated sort of a place with excellent Italian-style sandwiches while the latter is a tiny and suited to a quick coffee and a home made biscotti or two.

The busy young guys behind the machine send out a steady stream of perfectly-made flat whites, lattes, long blacks et al, although they warn “on this side of the ditch we like our drinks served hotter than you do in Oz.” The frantic little kitchen services a menu featuring eastern Mediterranean flavours. Almost everything is made on the spot, including the pita bread for the legendary lunch time felafels.

Owner Ben Boyle is very hands-on, roasting small batches of single origin beans in-house using a small Diedrich roaster. His is a smooth, aromatic brew, served default as double shots. He’s an experienced barista, placing second in the NZ championships twice running so it’s no wonder this elegant little cafe hums along so seamlessly.

This is a craggy, no-fuss sort of a place that’s actually more roastery than it is a cafe- it only opens from 7.30am-12am when the drum roaster hums away and beans are packed. There are no tables and chairs as such, just a few high seats to perch on; much of the trade is in takeaway beverages and bags of beans. There’s not really any food to speak of either; it’s all about the espresso. Made using a vintage Faema machine and Miller’s eponymous blend, unchanged for 25 years.

Gala is a smart, minimalist sort of a place, dominated by Billy Apple artwork, loads of concrete and big menu blackboards. Owner Peter Chichester has an excellent cooking pedigree; his food is stylish, unfussy and grounded. Breakfasts are simple, his scones are legendary and lunch gets into Reuben sandwich and Vietnamese Rice Noodle Salad territory. It ‘s an eclectic mix that works perfectly.

Some think this is currently the coolest place in town for coffee and a bite; it is certainly the most spacious. Housed in an old bus shed the interior has a raw, industrial aesthetic where you sprawl on comfy leather sofas or spread out around a big communal table. Breakfast and lunch menus are small but prepared with great attention to detail.